Things to see and do in Pau, France. One day in Pau ideas for visitors.
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“One day in Pau” summary:
This is a meandering itinerary to take at your leisure: sample the views, greenery, look up at the gracious buildings or explore the castle gardens. There is shopping and many cafes and restaurants for different budgets across the whole route. If you want recommendations for those, try Google or Tripadvisor, as there are too many to suggest here. Please see the map at the bottom of this page for a summary of the suggested route.
Driving and arriving in Pau by car
There are multiple ways into Pau but there should be only one way into the historic quarter for a first-time visitor. That is to adopt the travel of the Edwardians and take the funicular. To arrive in the town centre via the Funicular, park beneath the historic quarter and in front of Pau’s SNCF (railway) station. There are several parking options, notably next to the Philippe Tissié Stadium, Av. Gaston Lacoste, 64000 Pau (a running track and sports courts).
Le Tour des Géants (Tour of Giants)
The history of the Tour de France is synonymous with Pau. After Paris and Bordeaux, Pau is the most frequented city on the tour, hence the city’s proud “Pau, capitale du Tour” slogan. In the heart of the Bois-Louis park next to the stadium is a free open-air museum which celebrates the achievements of each annual winner. You can wander around the permanent monument of yellow totems. Once you’ve visited the monument, walk towards the Funicular.
Le funiculaire (the funicular)
Spoiler alert: this is not a rollercoaster or a big dipper. To take the funicular is to imagine being an Edwardian. Opened in 1908 after Pau had emerged as a popular international holiday resort – the reason for all the elegant mansions and villas across the town – on the funicular, time slows down for a few precious minutes. This quaint and free mode of transport rotates every three minutes, so you won’t have to wait long – even in summer.
You arrive onto the Boulevard des Pyrénées. Look left.
Place Royale
The pretty and symmetrical tree-lined Place Royale is in front of the tourist office and town hall (La Mairie). There is a statue of Henry IV (king from 1589 – 1610). Henri IV was a French king who lived in Pau. He was known as the good king for his efforts to unite France after religious wars and he brought more prosperity to the country. He is also well-known for desiring that every labourer in his kingdom should have a poule au pot (a chicken cooked in a pot) on a Sunday. During a week in December, restaurants and events across the city celebrate this emblematic dish and its king.
The Château de Pau
The château’s ramparts continue the lovely view across the mountains. You can also look down onto the newly regenerated Place de la Monnaie area. You can walk there or take an elevator. The château is worth a visit, but if you do not have time you can walk into the courtyard, explore the terrace and gardens. For nature-lovers, there is a substantial park (Parc du Château de Pau) in the distance (on the right if you are looking at the mountains).
Moving on from the castle
Leave the château and start to turn eastwards and walk along Rue Marechal Joffre, heading in the direction of Place Clemenceau with its shops and many side streets. From Place Clemenceau walk to the modern shopping arcade with the view of the mountains. It’s by the Apple shop and FNAC. If you pass through the arcade and the gardens, you will arrive back on the Boulevard des Pyrénées. In any doubt, just head for the view of the mountains.
Eating and drinking in Pau
There are numerous restaurants and cafes all along this route. On a cloudless day, it’s a pleasure to sit on the boulevard and enjoy a meal overlooking the mountains. Remember that in France, people eat lunch early – at midday – so to guarantee a table you will need to book or turn up between midday and 12:30; however, many of the cafes on the boulevard also cater for international clientele and have longer lunch sittings. There is also the ubiquitous student/tourist town’s Irish and Aussie pubs – if that is your potato.
Return to your car via the Funicular or palmerie
To return to the car, you can travel via the Funicular or take the path to the urban palm garden, La Palmeraie – Les Jardins de Joantho, and continue down to the stadium.
Bon voyage et bonne route.
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